Attempt on Rito Alto

Dates of Trip: 12-14 November 2009
Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Sangre de Cristo Range, CO, USA
Trailhead: Hermit Pass
Summit Objectives: Rito Alto

We took advantage of hobo's flying into Colorado Springs on Thursday, and the Air Force home football game on Saturday to sandwich in a drive down to the Sangres for some winter camping practice and a bit of hiking. We had both been sick with colds during the previous week, so we weren't sure how hard core the "hiking" part would be.

Our objective was to drive as far up Hermit Road, west of Westcliffe, as possible, as the jeep road theoretically goes all the way up to Hermit Pass at ~13000'. We made it to just above 9800' before the road was too slick up a steep hill (with a bit of a double fall line) to safely continue in the jeep. So we set up camp on a flat bit of snow, next to the lovely river that runs down from Hermit Lake. The night temperature was a very comfortable 36-ish degrees.

We got a good start up the jeep road in the morning, able to walk on top of the packed snow in the snowmobile tracks that covered the road. I insisted we carry my snowshoes (based on experience from Clinton/Traver/McNamee), but hobo didn't want his, so we only carried the one pair. This came in handy when we reached the spot where the snowmobiles has all turned around at the Hermit Lake Trail junction around 11,200', and soft, post-holey snow awaited us until above treeline (and even after that, in spots).

As we came to treeline at 11,800', the wind really started gusting, so we stopped at a rock-cliff shelter to gear up with long johns, balaclavas, gaiters, and goggles. As soon as we stepped out from treeline, the wind was gusting fiercely, and it only got worse as we went higher. We left the road to push straight up the hill and skip a switchback to shave off some distance, but by the time we reached 12,300', the wind had us all but stopped. It was gusting so hard that it was pushing me over. I couldn't walk when the wind was blowing, and in order to stay on my feet I had to plant my poles and duck low into the wind. We estimated that the wind was gusting up to 80 mph or so.

When the wind wasn't blowing, it was a very pleasant day! So we tried for awhile to duck and rest with the gusts and walk when it was calm. This made for really slow going as the gusts got more frequent and the calm got shorter. Since already like trying to push a brick wall up the hill, and we still had 1500' left to go (assuming the wind would only get worse [?!?] as we got higher), we decided to consider ourselves denied the summit, and enjoyed the hike down the hill and back to camp.

Back in camp, we grilled up an amazing steak dinner, and as we did, the snow started to fall. We climbed into the jeep to eat and tuned hobo's radar detector weather radio to the National Weather Service to try and determine if we should stay the night as planned, or hightail it down the hill to avoid getting snowed in. Luckily the snow accumulation for Friday evening was forecasted to be minimal, so we chose to stay. We awoke to a winter wonderland, our tent drifted into 2 inches of dry Colorado snow. The jeep put first tracks down the only slightly sketchy road in the morning, back to civilization.

The snowstorm would actually hit in full force during the football game, and the sketchiest part of the whole expedition turned out to be driving back to Denver from the Springs on I-25 at 35 mph with about 20 feet of visibility. :oP

Attempt on Clinton/Traver/McNamee

Dates of Trip: 16 October 2009
Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Ten Mile Range, CO, USA
Trailhead: Wheeler Lake
Summit Objectives: Clinton, Traver, and McNamee

The trail from Montgomery Reservoir to Wheeler Lake is pretty long and relatively flat. Once you get up to the lake at 12,100', the "trail" turns sharply uphill. This would have been a workout, but not a problem, if we hadn't slogged through some moderate snow up to the lake, and then floundered through thigh-deep snow up the hill. By the time we reached the basin below the peaks at 12,500 or so, we were exhausted, wet, and perplexingly running short on daylight. Conservatively, we chose to turn back. It's possible that snowshoes would have made some difference, but it's also possible that we just plain old didn't get an early enough start.

Still, it was a beautiful day to be out in the mountains, getting some fresh air, and playing in the snow, and a good welcome to the winter climbing season.

Shadow Mountain

Dates of Trip: 10-11 July 2009
Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Rocky Mountain National Park, CO, USA
Trailhead: East Shore Trailhead (Grand Lake)
Summit Objectives: Shadow Mtn and Mt. Bryant
Summit: Shadow Mtn at 10155 ft
Starting Ele: ~8200 ft
Ele. Gain: ~2000 ft
Distance: 10.0 mile

The actual weekend objective here was to revisit the wedding site, ensure that we knew how we were going to set it up, and make sure that it was in the condition we want it to be in (it needs to be mowed a little). Having achieved that on Friday afternoon, we (especially the bride) were feeling much less stressed about the state of all things wedding. After this and a few other wedding-related stops were completed, we headed out on County Road 491 into the National Forest to find a spot to free camp. It took us awhile to find our way out of the McMansion territory, but very shortly after crossing the NF boundary, we found a nice spot to settle for the night.

We set up camp and fired up the stove for dinner. Unfortunately, our timing was perfect for the onslaught of mosquitos and after scarfing her pork chop, tortoise holed up in the tent and watched the little buggers just try to get in at her. Hobo, meanwhile, found a convenient fire ring, and luckily, the wet spring that has brought mosquitoes to Colorado has also kept the fire danger low enough to have a campfire. Over the fire, we watched a spectacular lightning show going on over RMNP.


The next morning, we hit the East Shore Trailhead on the far side of Grand Lake at 7:30 am. The hike up Shadow Mountain was a very pleasant one - not too steep, shady and treed, lots of flowers, including a large patch of gorgeous columbines.




We reached the fire tower just after 10am, and has spectacular views of our wedding venue, Shadow Mountain Reservoir, Lake Granby, Summit County, the Never Summer Range, and the West side of RMNP. We shot a lot of pictures so that we can show our wedding guests and say, "We climbed that mountain right over there!!"






The fire tower is not on the true summit of Shadow Mountain, and of course, we needed to bag that, so we scrambled up the trail-less bump to the craggy, cliffy summit complete with a little exciting exposure. Deciding that it was getting hot and we had had a most excellent day already, we decided to head down and save Mt. Bryant for another day.




Quite a pleasant little hike, and one we'll be recommending to our wedding guests!!

Attempt on Pacific and Crystal

Dates of Trip: 23-24 May 2009
Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Ten Mile Range, CO, USA
Trailhead: Spruce Creek
Summit Objectives: Pacific, Atlantic, Crystal, and Father Dyer

After a fabulous climb at Mt. Hope the previous week, we decided to strike out again in search of another snow climb. Pacific's Northeast face seemed a perfect opportunity for it, along with a short pack-in with easy access to several other peaks. Conditions in the Sawatch had been mostly dry with patchy snow fields to just below 12,000 ft with couloirs holding snow well up to 14,000, and we expected similar for the Ten Mile/Mosquito area. It was not so.

We made it about halfway up the 4WD road at Spruce Creek in the Jeep before being denied by snow. Additionally, the snowy road conditions induced us to bring the snowshoes, in addition to crampons and ice axes. The trail conditions were mixed up to Lower Mohawk Lake at ~11,000 - on with the snowshoes, then off again, then on, then off. We made it up the headwall to the lake, and the trail seemed snowcovered from there, so we chose to set up camp. While our homemade dehydrated cuisine soaked a bit (Curried Lamb with Couscous... yum!!), we ventured out sans packs to scope the next day's route and break trail. Hobo made it nearly fully up the next headwall to Upper Mohawk Lake and called it good.

It snowed/sleeted/rained on and off most of the night.

The next morning, it turned out that our scouting/trail breaking paid off in spades, as it was an easy push up a potentially frustrating headwall. We proceeded across vast snowfields to the base of Pacific's Northeast face at ~12,500, abandoned poles for ice axes, and began kicking steps up the face. We chose to stay with the snowshoes instead of crampons, due to the 4-6 inches of fresh powder on top from the storms the night before. We were clearly punching right through that fresh layer to the more consolidated layer beneath. We recognized that there might be some avalanche danger, but it was early and all other conditions seemed good, so we proceeded. To avoid as much danger as possible, we climbed under a rock band, instead of in the middle of the "chute."

We made it up to the rock band and stopped for a break -- it was hard work. We were about halfway up at 12,900. At that point, conditions were seeming to deteriorate. The slope got steeper. Kicking steps became much more laborious and we were driving much deeper into soft snow - not a good sign. I (tortoise), in the lead, began kicking off small rollers. As the sun came up, it was quickly warming, and the snow pack, which clearly never got a really hard freeze the night before, was only getting softer.

After some discussion we opted to turn around due to perceived avalanche danger. We flipped over and had a spectacular glissade back down to our poles. Denied Pacific (and by the connecting ridge, Atlantic), we made for Crystal (and by its connecting ridge, Father Dyer) which was to be our next day's objective. We tramped across virgin snowfields in the basin, breaking trail. We were the first hikers to venture beyond Lower Mohawk Lake in sometime, judging by the utter lack of footprints. We reached Crystal's base and began ascending by contouring the side of the basin, when it began to snow in earnest, this time with a wind behind it, even as the snow on the slopes continued to soften. Judging that the conditions were just poor, and weren't likely to improve the next day, we reluctantly turned back, deciding to pack out and get home in time for the basketball game.

When we got back to camp, the sun was out, and it was a hot 70 degrees. We laid out our wet gear to dry as much as possible while we fixed up a hot lunch of corn chili. While we were busy at camp, we heard a rumble and watched an avalanche release in a couloir on one of the nearby ridges. Seeing that only cemented the conviction that we had done the right thing in turning around, not only on Pacific, but also on Crystal.

Then, while we were eating lunch, another round of storm blew in. When it was clear that this one wasn't going to blow out again in two minutes, we scrambled to get our gear and ourselves under the (mercifully still pitched) tent. We huddled in the tent for nearly an hour while the sleet and wind buffeted us. When it finally broke, we packed up in a whirlwind and made a dash down the mountain.

Amazingly, most of the trail below the lake, including down the headwall, was nearly snow free. What a difference a day (and some rain) makes! Of course, the snow was replaced by mud, which presents its own logistical challenges (e.g. if you fall in it, it will suck), but it was a quick hour for the 2 miles back to the Jeep.

Though we failed to bag any peaks, we left convinced that this will be a great place to return, after the snow has melted out of the basin. Maybe later this summer, we'll pack in all the way up to the basin. Pacific's northeast face holds snow into August, so we may get our snow climb in yet!

Mt. Hope via Hopeful Couloir

Dates of Trip: 16-17 May 2009
Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Sawatch Range, CO, USA
Trailhead: Willis Gulch
Summit Objectives: Hope and Quail
Summit: Hope at 13933 ft
Starting Ele: 9200 ft
Ele. Gain: 4700 ft
Distance: 10.0 mile

Packed in via the Willis Gulch TH, Little Willis Gulch trail on Saturday, 16 May. Trail was dry and hot until past the Big/Little Willis trail junction. Knee- to hip-high drifts of soft, wet, sugar snow covered the trail at times beginning around 10,600ft (around the switchbacks in the trail) and increased in frequency and annoyingness to the lake at 11,800. The final 500-700 ft is a real slog.

Woke at 4:45am and climbing by 5:15am. The snow above the lake was nice and solid. We donned crampons above the rock bands and began our ascent of the couloir, which had great snow in it. We could see the remnants of the avy field referenced by a previous 14ers trip report, and the snow here seemed well consolidated. There wasn't much of a cornice above Hopeful. This was my first snow climb of this level of difficulty (rated "moderate" in most places I've seen) so I had a few moments of panic at the steepness. My wonderfully patient fiance helped me readjust my crampons and get into a rhythm with my ice axe technique to feel more comfortable. We decided to exit the main couloir above the first rock band and continue up the couloir just to the climber's left (NE), which seemed a bit less steep. By the time we gained the ridge at 8:30am, the snow was softening quite a bit. hobo on the ridge (with Belford and Oxford behind? Maybe?): Image #9 We then navigated a couple of talus blocks to gain Hope?s summit. The summit block is a surprisingly gentle walk up after all it took to get there! There is still a HUGE cornice hanging off of the main summit snow pack, with some awesomely scary icicles hanging down off of it.

We descended to Hope Pass, assessing each couloir for glissade-ability. Each one seemed a little too steep with not enough run out and a little too hard-packed snow for my (overdeveloped?) sense of safety. We got to the Pass at the saddle, and the snow field from there was great for a glissade, which we took all the way down to just above the lake. We then packed up camp and packed out. We were thinking of bagging Quail next door, but we had an appointment back in town we needed to be back for, and had run out of time. It gives us a great excuse to come back to this beautiful, pristine, quiet area!

Mt. Helen

Dates of Trip: 17 January 2009
Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Ten Mile/Mosquito Range, CO, USA
Trailhead: Spruce Creek
Summit Objectives: Helen
Summit: 13164 ft
Starting Ele: 10440 feet
Ele. Gain: 2724 feet

We hauled our skis up to about 11600 or so, intending to ski down most of the way. Turns out conditions weren't all that good for it above the packed road at 10,9--ish. So while I hauled my skis (and boots) halfway up the mountain, I only actually ended up using them on the packed (and mostly flat) road to the trailhead. But it was my first backcountry skiing experience. It's a start!