Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Ten Mile Range, CO, USA
Trailhead: Spruce Creek
Summit Objectives: Pacific, Atlantic, Crystal, and Father Dyer
After a fabulous climb at Mt. Hope the previous week, we decided to strike out again in search of another snow climb. Pacific's Northeast face seemed a perfect opportunity for it, along with a short pack-in with easy access to several other peaks. Conditions in the Sawatch had been mostly dry with patchy snow fields to just below 12,000 ft with couloirs holding snow well up to 14,000, and we expected similar for the Ten Mile/Mosquito area. It was not so.
We made it about halfway up the 4WD road at Spruce Creek in the Jeep before being denied by snow. Additionally, the snowy road conditions induced us to bring the snowshoes, in addition to crampons and ice axes. The trail conditions were mixed up to Lower Mohawk Lake at ~11,000 - on with the snowshoes, then off again, then on, then off. We made it up the headwall to the lake, and the trail seemed snowcovered from there, so we chose to set up camp. While our homemade dehydrated cuisine soaked a bit (Curried Lamb with Couscous... yum!!), we ventured out sans packs to scope the next day's route and break trail. Hobo made it nearly fully up the next headwall to Upper Mohawk Lake and called it good.
It snowed/sleeted/rained on and off most of the night.
The next morning, it turned out that our scouting/trail breaking paid off in spades, as it was an easy push up a potentially frustrating headwall. We proceeded across vast snowfields to the base of Pacific's Northeast face at ~12,500, abandoned poles for ice axes, and began kicking steps up the face. We chose to stay with the snowshoes instead of crampons, due to the 4-6 inches of fresh powder on top from the storms the night before. We were clearly punching right through that fresh layer to the more consolidated layer beneath. We recognized that there might be some avalanche danger, but it was early and all other conditions seemed good, so we proceeded. To avoid as much danger as possible, we climbed under a rock band, instead of in the middle of the "chute."
We made it up to the rock band and stopped for a break -- it was hard work. We were about halfway up at 12,900. At that point, conditions were seeming to deteriorate. The slope got steeper. Kicking steps became much more laborious and we were driving much deeper into soft snow - not a good sign. I (tortoise), in the lead, began kicking off small rollers. As the sun came up, it was quickly warming, and the snow pack, which clearly never got a really hard freeze the night before, was only getting softer.
After some discussion we opted to turn around due to perceived avalanche danger. We flipped over and had a spectacular glissade back down to our poles. Denied Pacific (and by the connecting ridge, Atlantic), we made for Crystal (and by its connecting ridge, Father Dyer) which was to be our next day's objective. We tramped across virgin snowfields in the basin, breaking trail. We were the first hikers to venture beyond Lower Mohawk Lake in sometime, judging by the utter lack of footprints. We reached Crystal's base and began ascending by contouring the side of the basin, when it began to snow in earnest, this time with a wind behind it, even as the snow on the slopes continued to soften. Judging that the conditions were just poor, and weren't likely to improve the next day, we reluctantly turned back, deciding to pack out and get home in time for the basketball game.
When we got back to camp, the sun was out, and it was a hot 70 degrees. We laid out our wet gear to dry as much as possible while we fixed up a hot lunch of corn chili. While we were busy at camp, we heard a rumble and watched an avalanche release in a couloir on one of the nearby ridges. Seeing that only cemented the conviction that we had done the right thing in turning around, not only on Pacific, but also on Crystal.
Then, while we were eating lunch, another round of storm blew in. When it was clear that this one wasn't going to blow out again in two minutes, we scrambled to get our gear and ourselves under the (mercifully still pitched) tent. We huddled in the tent for nearly an hour while the sleet and wind buffeted us. When it finally broke, we packed up in a whirlwind and made a dash down the mountain.
Amazingly, most of the trail below the lake, including down the headwall, was nearly snow free. What a difference a day (and some rain) makes! Of course, the snow was replaced by mud, which presents its own logistical challenges (e.g. if you fall in it, it will suck), but it was a quick hour for the 2 miles back to the Jeep.
Though we failed to bag any peaks, we left convinced that this will be a great place to return, after the snow has melted out of the basin. Maybe later this summer, we'll pack in all the way up to the basin. Pacific's northeast face holds snow into August, so we may get our snow climb in yet!
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