Attempt on Rito Alto

Dates of Trip: 12-14 November 2009
Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Sangre de Cristo Range, CO, USA
Trailhead: Hermit Pass
Summit Objectives: Rito Alto

We took advantage of hobo's flying into Colorado Springs on Thursday, and the Air Force home football game on Saturday to sandwich in a drive down to the Sangres for some winter camping practice and a bit of hiking. We had both been sick with colds during the previous week, so we weren't sure how hard core the "hiking" part would be.

Our objective was to drive as far up Hermit Road, west of Westcliffe, as possible, as the jeep road theoretically goes all the way up to Hermit Pass at ~13000'. We made it to just above 9800' before the road was too slick up a steep hill (with a bit of a double fall line) to safely continue in the jeep. So we set up camp on a flat bit of snow, next to the lovely river that runs down from Hermit Lake. The night temperature was a very comfortable 36-ish degrees.

We got a good start up the jeep road in the morning, able to walk on top of the packed snow in the snowmobile tracks that covered the road. I insisted we carry my snowshoes (based on experience from Clinton/Traver/McNamee), but hobo didn't want his, so we only carried the one pair. This came in handy when we reached the spot where the snowmobiles has all turned around at the Hermit Lake Trail junction around 11,200', and soft, post-holey snow awaited us until above treeline (and even after that, in spots).

As we came to treeline at 11,800', the wind really started gusting, so we stopped at a rock-cliff shelter to gear up with long johns, balaclavas, gaiters, and goggles. As soon as we stepped out from treeline, the wind was gusting fiercely, and it only got worse as we went higher. We left the road to push straight up the hill and skip a switchback to shave off some distance, but by the time we reached 12,300', the wind had us all but stopped. It was gusting so hard that it was pushing me over. I couldn't walk when the wind was blowing, and in order to stay on my feet I had to plant my poles and duck low into the wind. We estimated that the wind was gusting up to 80 mph or so.

When the wind wasn't blowing, it was a very pleasant day! So we tried for awhile to duck and rest with the gusts and walk when it was calm. This made for really slow going as the gusts got more frequent and the calm got shorter. Since already like trying to push a brick wall up the hill, and we still had 1500' left to go (assuming the wind would only get worse [?!?] as we got higher), we decided to consider ourselves denied the summit, and enjoyed the hike down the hill and back to camp.

Back in camp, we grilled up an amazing steak dinner, and as we did, the snow started to fall. We climbed into the jeep to eat and tuned hobo's radar detector weather radio to the National Weather Service to try and determine if we should stay the night as planned, or hightail it down the hill to avoid getting snowed in. Luckily the snow accumulation for Friday evening was forecasted to be minimal, so we chose to stay. We awoke to a winter wonderland, our tent drifted into 2 inches of dry Colorado snow. The jeep put first tracks down the only slightly sketchy road in the morning, back to civilization.

The snowstorm would actually hit in full force during the football game, and the sketchiest part of the whole expedition turned out to be driving back to Denver from the Springs on I-25 at 35 mph with about 20 feet of visibility. :oP

Attempt on Pacific and Crystal

Dates of Trip: 23-24 May 2009
Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Ten Mile Range, CO, USA
Trailhead: Spruce Creek
Summit Objectives: Pacific, Atlantic, Crystal, and Father Dyer

After a fabulous climb at Mt. Hope the previous week, we decided to strike out again in search of another snow climb. Pacific's Northeast face seemed a perfect opportunity for it, along with a short pack-in with easy access to several other peaks. Conditions in the Sawatch had been mostly dry with patchy snow fields to just below 12,000 ft with couloirs holding snow well up to 14,000, and we expected similar for the Ten Mile/Mosquito area. It was not so.

We made it about halfway up the 4WD road at Spruce Creek in the Jeep before being denied by snow. Additionally, the snowy road conditions induced us to bring the snowshoes, in addition to crampons and ice axes. The trail conditions were mixed up to Lower Mohawk Lake at ~11,000 - on with the snowshoes, then off again, then on, then off. We made it up the headwall to the lake, and the trail seemed snowcovered from there, so we chose to set up camp. While our homemade dehydrated cuisine soaked a bit (Curried Lamb with Couscous... yum!!), we ventured out sans packs to scope the next day's route and break trail. Hobo made it nearly fully up the next headwall to Upper Mohawk Lake and called it good.

It snowed/sleeted/rained on and off most of the night.

The next morning, it turned out that our scouting/trail breaking paid off in spades, as it was an easy push up a potentially frustrating headwall. We proceeded across vast snowfields to the base of Pacific's Northeast face at ~12,500, abandoned poles for ice axes, and began kicking steps up the face. We chose to stay with the snowshoes instead of crampons, due to the 4-6 inches of fresh powder on top from the storms the night before. We were clearly punching right through that fresh layer to the more consolidated layer beneath. We recognized that there might be some avalanche danger, but it was early and all other conditions seemed good, so we proceeded. To avoid as much danger as possible, we climbed under a rock band, instead of in the middle of the "chute."

We made it up to the rock band and stopped for a break -- it was hard work. We were about halfway up at 12,900. At that point, conditions were seeming to deteriorate. The slope got steeper. Kicking steps became much more laborious and we were driving much deeper into soft snow - not a good sign. I (tortoise), in the lead, began kicking off small rollers. As the sun came up, it was quickly warming, and the snow pack, which clearly never got a really hard freeze the night before, was only getting softer.

After some discussion we opted to turn around due to perceived avalanche danger. We flipped over and had a spectacular glissade back down to our poles. Denied Pacific (and by the connecting ridge, Atlantic), we made for Crystal (and by its connecting ridge, Father Dyer) which was to be our next day's objective. We tramped across virgin snowfields in the basin, breaking trail. We were the first hikers to venture beyond Lower Mohawk Lake in sometime, judging by the utter lack of footprints. We reached Crystal's base and began ascending by contouring the side of the basin, when it began to snow in earnest, this time with a wind behind it, even as the snow on the slopes continued to soften. Judging that the conditions were just poor, and weren't likely to improve the next day, we reluctantly turned back, deciding to pack out and get home in time for the basketball game.

When we got back to camp, the sun was out, and it was a hot 70 degrees. We laid out our wet gear to dry as much as possible while we fixed up a hot lunch of corn chili. While we were busy at camp, we heard a rumble and watched an avalanche release in a couloir on one of the nearby ridges. Seeing that only cemented the conviction that we had done the right thing in turning around, not only on Pacific, but also on Crystal.

Then, while we were eating lunch, another round of storm blew in. When it was clear that this one wasn't going to blow out again in two minutes, we scrambled to get our gear and ourselves under the (mercifully still pitched) tent. We huddled in the tent for nearly an hour while the sleet and wind buffeted us. When it finally broke, we packed up in a whirlwind and made a dash down the mountain.

Amazingly, most of the trail below the lake, including down the headwall, was nearly snow free. What a difference a day (and some rain) makes! Of course, the snow was replaced by mud, which presents its own logistical challenges (e.g. if you fall in it, it will suck), but it was a quick hour for the 2 miles back to the Jeep.

Though we failed to bag any peaks, we left convinced that this will be a great place to return, after the snow has melted out of the basin. Maybe later this summer, we'll pack in all the way up to the basin. Pacific's northeast face holds snow into August, so we may get our snow climb in yet!

Sherman/Gemini

Dates of Trip: 20 May 2007
Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Mosquito Range, CO, USA
Route: Fourmile Creek
Summit Objectives: Sherman, Gemini
Summit: Sherman at 14036 feet, Gemini at 13951
Starting Ele: 3659 meter (12000 feet)
Ele. Gain: 793 meter (2600 feet)
Distance: 11 km (7.0 mile)

Snowshoes required for the soft snow in the midday hours.

North Star

Dates of Trip: 23 April 2007
Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Ten Mile Range, CO, USA
Route: Hoosier Pass, Southeast Shoulder
Summit Objectives: North Star
Summit: 13614 feet
Starting Ele: 3518 meter (11540 feet)
Ele. Gain: 732 meter (2400 feet)
Distance: 13 km (8.0 mile)

Got a moderately late start. Several false summits before the true one led us to keep pushing, though weather was building and we were tired. Slogging through avalanche fields in hip-deep snow with ice axes was fun, but fatiguing. Hobo ended up feeling quite sick, leading to a small scare as it started to snow about a 1/4 mile before we got back to the car. Many lessons learned.

Mt. Jackson

Dates of Trip: 9 December 2006
Climbers: hobo and tortoise
Location: Presidential Range, NH, USA
Summit Objectives: Jackson
Summit: 4052 feet

The dusky drive up to Intervale

Cozied up on the Intervale couch

Mt. Bierstadt

Dates of Trip: 11 November 2006
Climbers: tortoise and Jen
Location: Front Range, CO, USA
Route: Guanella Pass
Summit Objectives: Bierstadt
Summit: 14060 feet
Starting Ele: 3558 meter (11670 feet)
Ele. Gain: 729 meter (2390 feet)

Quandary

Dates of Trip: 27 January 2006
Climbers: tortoise and Steve
Location: Ten Mile, CO, USA
Route: Blue Lakes, East Ridge
Summit Objectives: Quandary
Summit: 14265 feet
Starting Ele: 3308 meter (10850 feet)
Ele. Gain: 1052 meter (3450 feet)
Distance: 11 km (6.8 mile